In short: the two motorbike loops we rode, around Pakse over the Bolaven Plateau and from Thakhek to Kong Lor Cave, each take about three days, and both are below as a free GPX download. In October and November 2023 we spent 27 days in Laos for €38.5 per person per day, including the Gibbon Experience and our flight from Pakse to Siem Reap.
Costs from our own expense sheet (two travellers, converted to EUR at the time). All prices are what we paid in October-November 2023; they will have changed. Page updated: October 2026.
The Laos motorbike loops (free GPX)
Both loops start in a town with motorbike rental and come with a map, day stages, Google Maps links and GPX/KML files for both directions. We rode both in 2014; in 2023 we rode the Pakse Loop again and, instead of the full Thakhek Loop, an out-and-back route to Kong Lor Cave.
Pakse Loop (Bolaven Plateau)
Waterfalls, coffee farms and villages: about 210 km in 2 days or our 2023 route in 3 days. Free GPX.
Thakhek Loop to Kong Lor Cave
Karst mountains, the Nam Theun 2 reservoir and a boat through Kong Lor Cave: 3 days. Free GPX.
Riding the Pakse Loop? See also the route to Tad Tayicseua, my favourite waterfall and Jhai Coffee in Paksong. For the Thakhek Loop: the bus from Vientiane to Thakhek and Kong Lor Cave. Rental in 2023: 840,000 kip for two motorbikes for 3 days in Thakhek, 720,000 kip for 3 days of scooter rental in Pakse.
Laos at a glance
| Our daily budget | €38.5 per person per day (27 days, October-November 2023, two people) |
| Our rooms (for two) | €6-25 a night |
| Currency | Lao kip (LAK); we paid ATM fees of 100,000-280,000 kip per withdrawal |
| Visa | We paid €71 for our two visas when we crossed from Thailand at Huay Xai (October 2023). Rules and prices change: check the official Lao eVisa site. |
| Mobile data | Two local SIM cards (30 days, 80 GB): 360,000 kip together (2023). Or an eSIM for Laos. |
How much does Laos cost per day?
Our average was €38.5 per person per day over 27 days. This is what it went to (per person per day):
| Category | Per day p.p. |
|---|---|
| Activities (incl. the Gibbon Experience, scooters, entrance fees) | €10.9 |
| Food and drinks | €10.1 |
| Accommodation (our share of the room) | €6.7 |
| Flight Pakse – Siem Reap | €4.8 |
| Transport (boats, trains, buses, tuk tuks) | €3.0 |
| Other (visa, ATM fees, laundry) | €2.5 |
| Supplies (SIM cards, toiletries) | €0.6 |
Our route through Laos (2023)
| Stop | Dates | How we got there |
|---|---|---|
| Huay Xai | 8-11 Oct | border from Thailand; Gibbon Experience |
| Pak Beng | 11 Oct | slow boat, day 1 |
| Luang Prabang | 12-16 Oct | slow boat, day 2 |
| Nong Khiaw | 16-17 Oct | bus |
| Muang Ngoy | 17-19 Oct | boat on the Nam Ou |
| Vang Vieng | 19-22 Oct | train |
| Vientiane | 22-24 Oct | train |
| Thakhek Loop | 24-27 Oct | bus; 3 days by motorbike |
| Don Det, 4000 Islands | 28-29 Oct | sleeping bus |
| Pakse | 29-31 Oct | bus |
| Pakse Loop | 31 Oct-3 Nov | 3 days by scooter; flight to Siem Reap on 4 Nov |
What things cost us (for two, 2023)
- The Gibbon Experience Express (2 days, 1 night) from Huay Xai: €410 for two.
- Boat Huay Xai – Pak Beng: 460,000 kip; slow boat Pak Beng – Luang Prabang: 400,000 kip.
- Entrance and parking at Kuang Si waterfall: 55,000 kip.
- Train Luang Prabang – Vang Vieng: 280,000 kip; Vang Vieng – Vientiane: 296,000 kip.
- Tubing in Vang Vieng incl. pickup: 200,000 kip.
- Bus Vientiane – Thakhek: 660,000 kip; sleeping bus Thakhek – Don Det: 380,000 kip; bus Don Det – Pakse: 300,000 kip.
- Kong Lor Cave entrance and boat, with a tip: 318,000 kip.
The whole trip through 9 countries and territories: what 8 months of backpacking in Asia cost us.
Where to go in Laos
The places I know, each with my own guides.
Getting around Laos
- From northern Thailand: cross at Huay Xai and take the two-day slow boat to Luang Prabang. From Vietnam: the bus from Sapa to Laos.
- North to south: we took the train from Luang Prabang to Vang Vieng and on to Vientiane, then buses south: Vientiane to Thakhek, Pakse to the 4000 Islands.
- Older routes: the bus from Luang Prabang to Vang Vieng (2014) and my first hitchhike in Laos.
- On to Cambodia: we flew from Pakse to Siem Reap (€257 for two, 2023).
Practical tips
- The laundry scam on Don Det
- Mobile data in Laos: eSIM or local SIM
- Renting a motorbike in Thakhek and the Travel Lodge in Thakhek
- Bring enough cash: ATMs charged us a fee for every withdrawal.
Laos in my photos
All my Laos guides
Every Laos article on GoBackpackGo, by region.
FAQ
How much money do you need per day in Laos?
We spent €38.5 per person per day in 2023 as a couple, including the Gibbon Experience and a flight to Cambodia. Without those two it was about €26 per person per day; rooms cost us €6-25 a night for two.
Which motorbike loop in Laos is best: Pakse or Thakhek?
They are different. The Pakse Loop is about waterfalls and coffee farms on the Bolaven Plateau: the small loop is about 210 km in 2 days, our 2023 route 363 km in 3 days. The Thakhek Loop is about karst mountains, the Nam Theun 2 reservoir and the boat through Kong Lor Cave: the full loop via road 13 is about 450 km in 3 days, our 2023 route to Kong Lor and back 515 km. Both are on the way south: in 2023 we rode Thakhek first and Pakse a few days later.
How many days do you need for Laos?
We had 27 days, from the Thai border at Huay Xai to Pakse, including both loops. Our route is in the table above.